Vandalisation of Buddha's Statue at Mustafapur (Nalanda)

A rare, four feet sculpture of Buddha from Pala period (8^th 12^th CE) at village Mustafapur was lost in a wanton act of vandalisation. In an unsuccessful bid to remove the sculpture from the temple in the village the miscreants have destroyed the face of the image. Ironically, the village is situated just 1km north of the world famous Ancient Nalanda University.

The Damaged sculpture of the Buddha

Rajgir, Nalanda and vicinity...

It took several sources, several dedicated people and numerous years to rediscover Rajgir and though its link with the glory of its past has been established, it is important to understand the process that brought us here, through which we realize the potential of this place as it stand today.


As we previously discussed, the initial clues and knowledge that encouraged an exploration in this area came from travelogues of Chinese visitors and Pali sources.
Elaborating further on that the first insight into this area’s history was provided by the detailed account of Fahien, who visited Magadha in 406 AD. He started his journey in 399 from China, traveled the famous silk route and after his stay here, he traveled to southern Indian and then to Sri Lanka on his way back to China in 414 via the sea route.
Considering the travel time it took for people to move around in those days, his trip to Rajgriha is considered very brief but he extensively traveled in this part of Magadha and visited most of the important sites of the time and not just that he left a detailed description of Rajgir and its vicinity stating the importance of the sites he visited and that has helped the archeologists in their initial search for clues and references.
Another important visitor of the area who has left a detail account of Rajgir and its vicinity is Xuanzang who was here in 637 AD and spent close to two years in Nalanda as a scholar of the famous university. He not only described the sites and their attributes in his travelogue but also mentioned the socio-economic condition of the area at the time which helped a lot in relating the heritage of the area to great kings and their dynasties.
Third pilgrim who visited this region and has left detail description of Nalanda University is It-sing who stayed here for ten years from 675 to 685 AD. Fourth pilgrim to make visit and leave an account was corean monk Hwui Lun whose period of visit is not clear.
An eyewitness account of the decline of Nalanda Sangharama is provided by Dharmasvamin. His description answered some questions about the disappearance of an international university that was in service for more that 700 hundred years and at the same time acted as a fuel to flare up our curiosity. He was in Nalanda for two years from 1235 to 1237 AD and states that it was the period of great turmoil with deteriorating economic situation. He also narrates his narrow escape while crossing Ganges when he refused to give away his belongings to a fellow traveler.

Pali sources from neighboring countries like Srilanka, Burma and others provided valuable information that helped piecing the puzzle together by giving us a detail description about places and there significance. Though they didn’t provide the exact locations as the previously mentioned travelogues did, yet they reinforced the fact that the different streams of religions practiced in the south-east Asian counties actually have a common origin and Magadha was at the land of their Lord.
Translation of sutras from Pali texts helped established the location of places like Nala and Nalanda, the two different places in close vicinity which were believed to be the different names of one a same place. Nalanda they maintain was associated with Pavarika mango grove where Buddha gave important sermons. Nala/ Nalak/ Nalika were associated with Sariputra. Nalanda as per the Pali tradition was also associated with Nirgranthas (The jains).


Other sources that contributed our knowledge bases are the Mahayanist texts, mainly the Tibetan sources. Lama Taranatha in his book “History of Buddhism in India” written in 17th century has given a detail description of origin of Nalanda Mahavihara though his account is based on the biographies and nothing much is known about the primary sources.
Rajgir and Nalanda were also associated with Lord Mahavira and many of his important disciples are from this place. We find mention about many places from this vicinity in the Jaina literatures.
We also find mention about Nalanda and Rajgir in Brhaminical accounts like Kautaliya’s, “Arthasastra”.

Now that we have documented the sources, in our next post we’ll find out how these texts helped orientalists rediscover Rajgir, Nalanda and the vicinity…
NEXT: 'Nalanda and Rajgir' continued....
SPECIAL NOTE: We have received some very interesting queries that we plan to address in the coming posts. So, if you are waiting for an answer, it is to let you know that its coming soon and if you are wondering if you should ask a question/clarification, sure go ahead, add it to the comments and you’ll hear from us soon…

'Nalanda and Rajgir' continued....

Rajgir and Nalanda were among few places which received attention from almost all notable orientalists and enthusiasts of 19th and early 20th century. And rightfully so, the enriched past of the area was in rubbles and there was no account of it anywhere. A number of legends and folklores existed in the area but there was no way to decipher between the truth and the myths.

Buchanan was the first to draw attention to the area with the publication of his interesting finds of the valley and places around Rajgir in 1811.
In 1845, East India Company appointed Kittoe to tread in the footsteps of Fahien. It was a good start though all of his identifications were found incorrect by later explorers and he set a big example of ‘how not to do things’. It was mid-summer and he leaned a lot on his assistants for taking legs, without following through and verifying their work. But to his credit, he chose to start his exploration from this part of Magadha.
A major break through came for the area in 1861 when Alexander Cunningham equipped with the copy of travelogues of Fahien, Xuanzang and reports of Buchanan started his tour to Bodh Gaya and Rajgir. He successfully established the Remains of Bargaon as Site of Ancient Nalanda Mahavihara.
The work that started then was carried further by many explorers. With lots of information and all of it being open to interpretations, its difficult to pin down specific sites and establish a well accepted standard. Work done by some was either confirmed or negated by others following their steps.

For example, the likes of James Ferguson, James Burgess and Auriel stein negated the identification of sone bhandar, site identified by Kittoe and Cunningham as Saptaparni. It was a Mauryan cave in their opinion, too later a period to be saptaparni.
A Cave Site on the north side of Vaibhara hill, identified by Beglar in 1872 is generally accepted as the site of Saptaparni. This site is also not out of contention, John Marshall was of opinion that the site as described by Xuanzang is a “Stone house” and not “Stone cave”, he suggested another site further west at the foot of same hill as more appropriate site for such a council.
Burgess and Ferguson were also of same idea and a question mark on Beglar identification still continues.
{The above example might overwhelm you with the amount of information and contradictions at the same time but we plan to revisit this topic with latest tools of the technology and elaborate more on the details}
Many more explorers like George Grierson, Vincent smith, Dr. Austine Waddell, Sylvain Levy and others made their contribution towards the search but nothing conclusive could be achieved.

In the table below, we have summarized some sites as identified by these explorers and mentioned their status. This would give you a glimpse into the difficulty this situation presented despite the hard work put in by these men and with good intentions…
The identification of sites is summarized below, (click on the image to see larger view)

* Significance of places shall be dealt separately in subsequent chapters

No matter what approach you choose to look at this piece of information, you cannot deny the complexity of it.
Whether you are a traveler, an explorer, a mathematician, a scientist, a spiritualist or just a passer by or anything else you may choose to identify yourself with, you would have to acknowledge that despite the knowledge that is already available, it is a tough task to compile and recreate history. And on top of that the information that is yet to be discovered is damaged and tampered with by the ignorance of the masses. So educating the masses about their heritage and involving the community in its preservation is a way of restoring the past that has been explored and all that is yet to come…



Understanding of the history is an ongoing process that must be continually elaborated and revised as our knowledge in the subject expands. We know the glorious days that this place has witnessed and over the course of time we have come to associate our self with the history and take pride in the importance of this area but that’s just the beginning.
We have a long way to go….
The compilation of all the previous findings and analyzing & corroborating them using the existing maps and latest technology like GIS, etc is an effort to further the work done by previous enthusiast and archeologists…

The interest rekindled has to keep going, the discovered needs to be documented using new technology, conserved and most important of it all, is that the community needs to be involved in the conservation of its heritage and benefit from it in the process.

Let’s together usher a new era of community participation in heritage management…

Travelogue matrix for Nalanda and Rajgir

Given below is a list of places with respect to distance and direction as mentioned by Xuanzang and Fahien in a matrix format. For calculation purpose we have divided the places in 5 different groups.
Land use has changed a lot in last 1500 years; the endpoints for many measurements cannot be verified with precision specially the smaller distances. Many sites like Nalanda Mahavihara are very big and a small measurement up to 4li will fall within its premises. It holds true for places like Venuwan too whose size a few centuries ago must be much larger than the current site. In such cases these places can’t be used for identification of places in reference to them.


Since there is a vast range of interpretations between the travelogues and a few discrepancies have come up during the various revisions, detail matrices have been prepared for different translation works.

1- Fahien accounts- by James Legge

B- Xuanzang
1- The life of Hiuen-Tsiang by Shaman Hwui Li
By Samuel Beal

2- Record of western countries- Samuel Beal

Venuwan Details
Details of Nalanda and vicinity
3- Xuanzang travels in India- Thomas Watters

4- Xuanzang- Histoire de la vie de Hiouen Thsang- 1853 (Broadley-Buddhist remains of Bihar)

5 - Xuanzang - Memories sur les contrees occidentales- 1857 (Broadley-Buddhist remains of Bihar)

NOTE: Click on tables to view larger image

NEXT: 'Li' & 'Yojan' in Nalanda Using GIS  

'Li' & 'Yojan' in Nalanda Using GIS

As we had mentioned in an earlier post here is an attempt to use modern techniques to verify some established reference points from the available literatures...

We try to find the values of Li and Yojan between the places mentioned by Xuanzang and Fahien using GIS software and GPS. For this we take few fixed points (reference) which are now established and confirmed as the places mentioned by Fahien and Xuanzang in their travel accounts.

Fixed points- Nalanda, Rajgir, Indrasaila Guha (Isolated Hill, Parwati) and Telhada





The distances found using the GIS are the shortest distance between the places. We do not have any information on the path used during earlier times. Some sites like Nalanda, Telhada and Rajgir must be much bigger than the existing remains. Also the cart-tracks in old times must be longer. It’s also not clear if Xuanzang himself measured the distances or they were based on enquiry. Also we know Xuanzang moved around Nalanda on an Elephant. Taking every thing in consideration it’s safe to have a margin of error of ±10% of the measured value, for measurement of average distances as we shall do in Nalanda and around.


1 Li= 416Mts, Buffer= 378 mts to 458 mts
1 Yojan= 9.3 Kms, Buffer= 8.37Kms to 10.23Kms –Xuanzang
1 Yojan= 12.5 Km, Buffer= 11.25 Kms to 13.75 Kms-Fahien

THE PROCESS OF REDISCOVERY OF NALANDA MAHAVIHAR

The ruins of the ancient university of Nalanda are one of the most popular destinations of Nalanda. Actually it is synonymous with Nalanda just like Eiffel tower is to Paris and it is no surprise that the discovery of such an existence in this part of the world put Nalanda on the hot spot and the curiosity grew about the how’s and the why’s. Its been almost 200 years since we first saw the first glimpse of it, at least on the record, and we are still waiting to know more…

Before we go into details lets see how it was rediscovered:

Nalanda Mahavihara was an ancient seat of learning in the glorious historical days and its ruins are situated 90 km from Patna and 80 Km from Gaya. The Nalanda Mahavihara was the culmination of the vihara system started at the time of Buddha. The first viharas were the makeshift dwellings made up of bamboos, this provided the Bhikkhus and the sangha much needed shelter at time of varsavaas. A small cluster of such small units away from villages and towns made an ideal place for meditation and discourses. Nalanda Mahavihara holds a special status for it was the first of its kind where Monks didn’t have to go to collect alms. All the arrangements for food, lodging and basic necessities were provided by the Kings and the local community. This university which flourished uninterrupted for more than 8 centuries served as a benchmark for all later establishments.
Centre of attraction of the Nalanda Mahavihara is Mulagandhakuti also known as temple no 3 at the centre of Establishment. This is also an important site because teachers from this university were founders of Buddhism and Lamaism in the great Himalayan country of Tibet.


Buchanan – 1812 AD
Dr. Francis Buchanan Hamilton was first to report about the extensive ruins of Bargaon. He was told that this was palace of the Raja Bhimika father of lord Krishna’s Wife Princess Rukmani. The Jain priests told him that the place was palace of Raja Srenik (Bimbisara).



Kittoe—1847-48
Kittoe was 2nd to notice the mound of Bargaon. Kittoe received a part translation of Fahien travelogue prepared by J .W. Laidley in 1848
Kittoe followed Fahien footsteps and started his journey from Patna. His first target was Indrasaila guha which according to Fahien was an isolated hill 7 Yojan SE from Patna. His assistants who took the measure mistook Bari Pahari (Bihar Sharif) as Indrasaila Guha which was actually further south east. Second leg he took was for Nala, Birthplace of Sariputra which as per Fahien was 1Yojan SW of Indrasaila Guha.





Since his 1st identification of Bari Pahari, Bihar Sharif as Isolated Hill (Indrasaila guha) was wrong his 2nd identification of Nala 1yojan SW, reach him at place which was not one Yojan east of Rajgir as mentioned by Fahien
Kittoe’s 1 Yojan= 4 Kos=8miles
In his 2nd expedition Kittoe went to Bargaon which he left to his assistants in his first expedition. He felt that Bargaon could be site of Nala (birthplace of Sariputra) though the calculation and direction mentioned by Fahien where not supporting his conclusion.

SPECIAL NOTE:
So far, we have been discussing how the area was re-discovered umpteen number of years ago and although it is very fascinating to re-visit someone else’s account of travel but you’ll have to agree it can not be as thrilling as sharing your own account of a new discovery.

As we have mention before that there is a lot that remains to be discovered in the beautiful settings of Nalanda and to give you a glimpse of that, we’ll talk about a recent discovery that ‘Deepak Anand’ made in the Valley of Rajgir. His own account of how he found it, the hardship, the exhilaration and the satisfaction… keep your eyes peeled!

REDISCOVERY OF NALANDA MAHAVIHAR contd:

Continuing with our story about how the ruins of Nalanda were discovered. Buchanan and Kittoe had made the first round of exploration and Cunningham followed through in the steps more than a decade later…

Cunningham- 1861

Cunningham faced no difficulty in identification of Ruins of Bargaon as the remains of Ancient Mahavihara. He was fortunate to have Xuanzang’s accounts to his help which Kittoe didn’t. As per the accounts the Nalanda University was 30 Li North of New Fort, Rajgir, which he had little difficulty in identifying given he already had the clues left by Buchanan and Kittoe.




Broadley- 1871-72

Broadley started excavation of biggest mound at the Bargaon site in an unsystematic and unscientific manner. More than 1000 labour where employed for uncovering the Mound (Temple no-12) which they completed in 10days. In this hurry laborers even pulled down a magnificent gate at the western side of the courtyard. Cunningham reached Bargaon as newly appointed director general of revived ASI, Cunningham was not happy with excavations carried by Broadley. He was further irritated by the justification offered by Broadley, excavations according to Broadley were justified on grounds that Nalanda was a quarry of bricks for centuries and it was necessary to see what lies inside the stupa. In hurry Broadley arranged a pillar upside down and in order to leave his marks he even ascribed his name in one of the pillars twice.

Systematic Excavations from 1915 to1937 by Spooner, Page, Hiranand sastri and others

This post is all pictures and no words, well almost no words...
The pictures are from the display board right in front of the main temple of the Nalanda ruins and pretty much explain the entire process.

Current situation of Nalanda Mahavihara

The excavated part of the ancient Nalanda Mahavihara is 1/10th of the existing remains. Rest of the mound is inhabited and buried under local peoples’ daily life and livelihood. The mound is surrounded by small and big water bodies from three sides. Earth removed from the water bodies were used in making the bricks used for the university.


Bricks of different sizes were used at different period, we will use the size
“18In X 13In X 4.5In”. We shall take 8 Feet as an average depth of water bodies for calculation of volume of earth used

Total area of 20 water bodies = 246.57 acres= 246.7 X 43560 Sq ft = 10746252 Sq ft
Volume of earth removed= 8 Ft X 10746252 Sq Ft = 85970016cu.ft
Volume of brick used at Nalanda = 1053 Cu.In= 0.609375Cu.Ft
Total no of bricks used= 141079001

Can you try and imagine that many number of bricks?


Villages on the Existing mound
1- Muzzafarpur
2- Kapatiya
3- Surajpur
4- Bargaon
5- DamanKhanda
6- Begampur
7- Mustafapur

Birth place of Sariputra

Sariputra was the chief disciple of Buddha and was also called Dhamma senapati (general of the Dhamma). As per the Pali sources he was born and died in Nalaka gram. Before he joined the Buddhist order he was disciple of Sanjaya Belatthaputta. He attained Nirvana in full moon night of Kartika Month.

Birth place of Sariputra is still a puzzle. Fahien and Xuanzang both visited Nala (Xuanzang’s Kalpinaka) and have given details of measure and direction. While Fahien reached Nala from Indrasaila Guha, Xuanzang reached Kalpinaka from Nalanda Mahavihara via Kulika (birth place of Moggallana).
We see as we apply the indications on a GIS map, the places don’t fall exactly at one place. Chandi-Mau and Nanand are among the most probable sites. Chandi-Mau falls in the radius of Fahien’s buffer and Nanand falls under the Xuanzang’s buffer, the archaeological remains at both the site are substantial. Broadley visited Chandi-Mau and said this could be Sariputra’s birth place Nala. The pottery found at the surface in Chandi-Mau don’t support any monastic or stupa structure before 5th century AD

Fahien’s Nala (birthplace of Sariputra)




Xuanzang’ Kalpinaka (birth place of Sariputra)




Putting Xuanzang and Fahien records together

Probable places of Sariputra’s birth place and Nalanda


Two most probable places which come under the probability zone are
1-Chandi-Mau (suggested by Broadley)
2-Nanand

Kulika (Xuanzang’s Travelogue), Kolit gram (Pali sources)

Mahamogallan was born in Kolit gram and was friend of Sariputra. Along with Sariputra he too joined the Buddhist order. Like sariputra, Moggallana was also closest disciples of Buddha and was popular for the supernatural abilities he possessed. He was hacked to death in the Rajgir valley by disciples of another school of thought.

Xuanzang went to Indrasaila guha from Nalanda Mahavihar, Visiting four stupas at four places on way. First he went 8-9Li NW to Kulika from there he went 3-4Li E for the stupa to mark meeting between Buddha and Bimbisara. From This stupa he went 20Li SE to reach Kalpinaka (Sariputra stupa), from here he went 4-5 Li SE to visit another stupa and finally he took 30Li E for Indrasaila Guha.
We will try to come to Kulika from two places
1- Starting from Nalanda and directly reaching Kulika—8-9Li SW
2- Starting from Nanand(assuming it to be Sariputra place) and Chandi-Mau (Broadley’s Nala) to reach Kulika- 1st leg of 20Li NW to Bimbisara stupa and then 3-4Li W for Kulika



To reach Kulika from birthplace of Sariputra we take two legs, 1st of 7.5 --9.1 Km, NW from Sariputra birth place to a stupa to mark meeting place of Bimbisara and Buddha.2nd leg of 1.3- 1.6 Km W, from the stupa to the village Kulika.
To consider all possibilities we take measure from Nanand and Chandi-Mau both the probable site for the Sariputra birth place. Measures from Chandi Mau take us to farther west and the area of interest in this case is too far from the probable places. But we shall be taking all the probable villages in the vicinity and see the chances that each place stand taking into account the potshards, sculpture, existing Mound and items of archaeological interest. All the four villages have mounds and as far as Potshards are concerned Juafardih and Jagdishpur has NBPW in large quantities. Saure and Rukmanisthan don’t have any potshards earlier than Pala period on surface. Juafardih one of the most promising sites was excavated in 2007 and it had a mud stupa at the heart which belonged to Buddha period. In subsequent centuries it was further enlarged with mud and at the Kushana-sunga period a brick stupa was constructed over it. Though no relic casket was found in the stupa but still it was an important stupa to mark some special event at the time of Buddha.

A close view


A Closer view with scale


Rukmanisthan


Jagdishpur Mound


Juafar Dih (Excavation in progress in 2007)